Phang Nga Bay

We boarded a boat on a river near Phang Nga, and although we had the limestone islands of the bay already in our mind, the boatman first took us through the backwaters of the bay. Small rivers with mangroves on both sides and an abundance of green was only to get us ready for the bay and its islands. Already here, as in Phang Nga town, we could see tall limestone rocks sticking out of the landscape. Suddenly, the landscape widened, the horizon disappeared in the distance, and we had entered Phang Nga bay itself.

With the constant drone of the longtail boat engine in our ears, we rapidly passed Ko Panyi and the panorama became truly amazing. High limestone rocks, covered with a green layer of trees and shrubbery, defined the horizon of Phang Nga National Bay all around us. Since the sea was quiet, the peaks of the islands were reflected in the water. We stayed fixed on the landscape unfolding before our eyes, when eventually the boatman guided us to the beach of an island where we explored a cave. After that, we sailed through Tam Lod Grotto and ended up having lunch at a beach with a gorgeous view over the bay.

The boatman disappeared, leaving us stranded on the island in the middle of Phang Nga National Bay, and when he finally returned, he took us directly to Ko Khao Ping Gan. Here, we disembarked and just around the corner, a strangely familiar sight came on our eyes as tiny Ko Tapu became visibile, sticking out of the little bay. This weird rock rose to fame because it starred in James Bond The Man With The Golden Gun. Actually, its more common name now is James Bond island. Unfortunately, this means that it has now turned into a major tourist trap with little stalls selling all kinds of souvenirs on the beach opposite the rock. Filter this out, and you can still appreciate the amazing beauty of the islands.

Ko Panyi

On our way to Phang Nga Bay National Park, we passed Ko Panyi, or Panyi island, and knew we would be back later. After half a day cruising the bay with its typical islands and rocks, we moored at one of the many piers of this fishing village. While most other visitors just stay for half an hour, we had decided to stay overnight. In fact, Ko Panyi, established in the 18th century by Indonesian fishermen, at first seems to be a tourist trap. The first streets you see are completely packed with tourist shops, with shopkeepers trying to sell, without even selling anything very special.

But it certainly is a good idea to walk on, and reach what could be called the outskirts of Ko Panyi. No more shops, no more people trying to sell, here is where you see the local fishermen preparing their boats, you see women repairing or cleaning the nets of their husbands, you see children cycling on the narrow strips of concrete that were laid on top of the stilts on which almost the entire village is built. It also brings you to the small mosque of the village (the Indonesian fishermen who moved here were, almost inevitably, moslim), and on to the border of the village. From here, you can have a great view of sunset, while you see the sun give its warm colours to the houses of the village.

Upon return, our guesthouse had prepared a surpringly sumptuous and delicious meal for us. While the village had been quite lively just a few hours before, activity died down rapidly and the village rapidly assumed a dark look. No wonder, most of the inhabitants are still fishermen, and early the next morning, we heard the longtail boats with their noisy engines leaving Ko Panyi in search of their nets. Thanks to them, we were in time to see the sun rise from a hazy landscape, see some fishermen return with full nets, and see the village come alive again before heading back to the mainland.

James Bond Island, Phang nga bay

What does it take to put a tourist destination on the international map? Great beaches, crystal clear water, clement weather? Not really… You are certainly best off trying to get it into a James Bond movie! The 1974 film ‘The Man with the Golden Gun’ is remembered for three things; a gun (made up of gold jewellery), an arch villain (Scaramanga), and those odd shaped little islands where Scaramanga set up base.

Although on the tourist circuit they are collective know as James Bond Island, there were in fact two islands featured in the movie. Koh Khao Phing Kan in Phang-Nga Bay was the bad guy’s base and cone-shaped (broad at the top and narrow at the bottom) Koh Tapu where he hid what we would call today a ‘weapon of mass destruction’.

Although there is no doubt that James Bond Island is a ‘must see’ destination, you are probably aware of what you will get. Most people reach the island by tour and although there are some genuinely beautiful sights to be seen, the tours usually involve you being dropped of on a beach to be confronted by swarms of vendors trying to palm off tasteless souvenirs! Classic! The tours do often include a lunch at Koh Panyi which is a step in the right direction.

Our advice: Do it… despite everything, it’s an enjoyable trip!

How to get there: There is a bus boat that moves around the islands and ends up at James Bond Island but by far the largest number of people do this trip via a tour from Phuket that takes people through some of the major sites on the way. Alternatively, take a boat cruise from the north of Phuket Island – less crowds and a bit quieter.